Here's how I think the Tian Tian JXQ-10A Gasifier's FILTER works

Created: March 2, 2010
Last Revised: October 23, 2023

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Note: Back in 2009 and 2010, right after I got my JXQ-10A Gasifier, I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to run it.
And here below, are my general queations to the world at large.
For the most part, I answered them myself, but I did get some input from others. Enjoy!

First, I am looking at the filter from the side that has all the fittings and the blower.
I will call this the FRONT, even though the directions that came with it call it the back.

The picture below has call-outs for the various pieces of plumbing that I will be referencing throughout this explanation.

JXQ-10A Gasifier Filter with Callouts

Here's what I think is inside the filter and what the parts are for

The only piece of plumbing on the LEFT end of the filter is the large flanged pipe that connects directly to a mating flanged pipe from the gasifier.

The only piece of plumbing on the RIGHT end of the filter is the short 1 inch pipe, about 2 inches long, that sticks out high on the RIGHT end. This is the gas outlet FROM the system TO the appliance.

At the left edge of the filter, there is a built-in vertical water tank, a couple of inches wide and as high as the filter is tall.
It surrounds the left side incoming (hot?) gas pipe from the gasifier (A).
This is the large flange on the lower left side of the filter.

This water tank, at the left edge of the front of the filter, has two 1 inch pipe nipples coming out of it.
The upper nipple (G) has a tee connected directly to it, with the center outlet pointing upward. The "other end" has a 1/4 turn ball valve connected to it.

The lower pipe (F)has a 1/4 turn ball valve connected directly to it.

At the upper right of the FRONT, is a large door with a wing-nut operated CLAMP.
Here is where the final filter material is to be placed. The original directions say to use "activated charcoal" or broken up corncobs or "sawdust" (and some "etc.").
The floor of the compartment in there is made of perforated plate with 1/2 inch holes in it.

If you use material that could fall through those 1/2" holes, it will be real hard to ever get it out of the system!

(B) BLOWER INPUT: (suction side of blower)
Large Flanged pipe in center of FRONT (Under the plate I am using to do vacuum testing)
This is the input for the blower.
This pipe turns upward immediately upon entering the filter cavity behind it.

BLOWER OUTPUT:(Pressure side of blower)
The 2" pipe sticking out of lower right hand corner of FRONT.
This 2" pipe is connected to the blower output with a piece of rubber radiator hose.
This pipe turns down and is (apparently) submersed in the water in the bottom when the device is in operation.

It's a big surprise to me that both the INPUT and the OUTPUT of the blower are common to eachother, at least when there's no water in the bottom. In this no-water state, the blower is also common to:
The 1" pipe at the lower right (E)

The blower sucks fuel gas from the gasifier IF there's a negative pressure at the input of the filter.
By that I mean that, if the output of the filter(D) is closed, I think the blower just pushes gas around and around within the box.
I think that the height of the pipe (E1) sticking out of the lower right fitting (E), the one that has the TEE and the GATE VALVE(E3), is THE SYSTEMíS PRESSURE REGULATOR!
The bottom 3 or 4 or 5 inches of the filter is apparently filled with water.

At this point, I think the fuel gas must bubble through this water as it comes in from the gasifier. There is a perforated metal plate just above that water. I think its job is to keep the water from bubbling up too much.
This water must cool the fuel gas and condense out tars, etc. to some extent.
I'd assume that, the cooler the water, the better job it does.

I don't think that the blower is capable of pushing water out of that pipe, even when conditions would be most favorable.
So, the height of water column established in that vertical pipe determines the max gas pressure to the appliance.

If the outlet of the filter is choked down by anything, like the gas valves on the appliance being turned off, the blower can only suck until the water column in the pipe is as high as it will go.
Then the system is, more or less, in equilibrium, and the vacuum in the gasifier reduces, slowing combustion.
In other words: the pressure at the input to the blower and the pressure at the output are equal???

I wonder if E2 is for draining off excess liquid from the surface of the lower water layer?
If we assume that the tars, etc. float on the top, this would make sense. The Chinese directions seem to say this: ---connect a rubber hose to the overflow outlet (E2, I assume), ---When in use, raise the rubber hose above the input water hose. (I think this means to raise it above the top of pipe (E1).
And, finally,---When not in use, lower the rubber hose to allow overflow.
Here I think they mean that we drain off any condensates/tars that have gathered during the last run.

The Big lower right valve, E3 would be used for completely draining the lower tank.

Things I still don't understand:

1. In the Chinese directions, "Preparation and Use", Preparation,(1.);
It says "fill the lower sealed water tank----".
This tank isn't sealed at ALL! It is common to almost everything in the whole machine except the tank at the left.

"water hose" must mean "water valve"? Or does it mean that you are to go find a water hose and use it to do the filling?

Where do you fill the lower tank?
Into the open end of(E1)?

2. -Preparation,(2)
Fill the circulating water tank--
Is this the tank at the left edge?
If so, what is the tee at (G), between the tank and the valve for?

3.Still relating to the tank at the left:
In the instructions on the Ebay listing page it says ---there is a upper and lower water fitting to trickle in some water if desired---
How does one decide whether they need to trickle some water in or not?