Anvil Face Grinding

Last Revised: February 27, 2017

Home        Blacksmithing Main Page         Back to Pete's Anvil Page         Contact Us        

Several people have asked me questions about the Face Grinding of anvils that I do on my old 8" X 20" surface grinder. Here are some of the answers:
Yes, I do some anvil resurfacing. But I only do surface grinding of the anvil face. If that's all that is needed, I can do it. I charge $2.00 per thousandth of an inch removed. That gets me about $20 per hour for me and the surface grinder and includes setup and base truing, if necessary. I haven't ever worked on an anvil that took less than 30 thousandths to true up. I have worked on anvils up to about 150# and I think I could handle one up to about 190#.

In sizing up your anvil, lay a straight edge across it several different ways and, using a scale (machinists rule ) that measures 64ths of an inch, estimate the amount of "sway" in the anvil and the depth of the worst nick or dent. One 64th of an inch is 16 thousandths or $32.
Or, if you want to be more accurate, you can use a feeler gage to determine the exact depth of any dips.

Don't worry tooooooo much about nicks on the edges of the anvil as long as there are a few inches that will probably clean up to "square". I say this because most of us don't have ENOUGH radius on the edges of our anvil as it is. You need a radius of as much as a dime at the edges of the face closest to the horn and it should taper to nothing (square) 4 or 5 inches back from there. ---Both on the near and far sides of the face. That is, unless you are a farrier; they like sharp square edges.

Sometimes an anvil's owner tells me about how much removal they want to pay for and sometimes they just say "clean it up". I would prefer that the owner be there when I grind it so they can decide when I should stop if the anvil isn't cleaning up completely. This makes sense because sometimes there will be only one spot that has a deep gouge and it's really not worth it the grind away at the whole anvil for just one spot.
I can take the anvil down a agreed upon amount, (or less if it cleans up), stop grinding, then call the owner and report the condition.
The owner can then decide to stop or to take off more----As long as I don't have to wait several days to contact the owner.

If the anvil needs to be welded on to replace missing metal, I don't know who is doing it right now. In the Twin Cities area, Myron Hanson has done several recently, Dick Carlson has done at least one as has Bob Beck. But it is a dirty, lengthy job and Myron tells me that he doesn't want to do it anymore. You can certainly ask around.
In order to save yourself a lot of time, if the anvil is repaired by welding, take the time to true up the face to the best of your ability before you send it to me. It takes just about as long to make one full pass of 0.002 inches to catch a small bump as it does to work the whole face!!!

You can do a lot to flatten the surface yourself with a framing square and body grinder with a hard wheel.

I hope this discussion solves more problems than it raises. Please let me know if you need more information or if I have just confused you. I have been doing this anvil face grinding on and off since late 1999.